Wednesday, July 16, 2014

3D Printer DLP - Rev 2

 I've decided to make a more streamlined version of my previous 3D DLP Printer.  After finding a good deal on 8020 for some 2" square aluminum extrusions, I decided to go ahead and start the build.  

Materials Used: (most off of ebay)

Below, I've mounted my linear rail (14" of travel) to two 36" long 2" square 10 series t-slot extrusions.  I used some 8020 right angle gussets to make it very rigid.  



I used a 1" square t-slot extrusion to mount the first surface mirror and another to mount the projector.  I plan on designing a better projector mount to print on my reprap soon - I'll post pics of that once complete.  Just a right angle piece of aluminum holding it on at the moment.


 Here is the projector and mirror mounted and base frame cut to length. 





 I used the original mount for the mirror I had made with epoxy and my mitre saw.  I plan on printing a more "elegant" solution once the DLP printer is up and running. 




 I mounted a 2" extrusion accross horizontally and used 1" extrusions to frame out the vat base. It is cantilevered out from the vertical members and is very rigid.  The paper is there to adjust focus and measure the x y values for the print area.


 My mirror needs some cleaning...



 Now, I've mounted the peristaltic pump on the vertical member.  The DC motor can operate in both directions allowing me to fill and drain the vat.  I have still yet to design the "nozzle" for the portion that lays in the vat. 


The birdcage blower fan is mounted to the vertical member along the back.  I will be cutting acrylic pieces to enclose the VAT to the top of the linear rail.  The blower will be connected to the top and blow into a activated carbon filter.  



 Here you can see the blower fan better.  I've also mounted the build plate to the linear rail. Notice this design doesn't have a slide mechanism. Previously I had the VAT mounted on rails and it would slide between lifts.  For this design, I plan on making various attachments to the Z axis.  One will rotate a circular build plate, another will be as shown below, and yet another will have the slide mechanism on the horizontal bar coming out of the Z axis slide mount.

Finally has some time last night to finish the build.  I'll post those pics soon.  Here's half of the rook I printed so that the interior is visible.  This is the first test print and it came out excellent.  Has some fuzz from my pocket (brought it to work to take pics). 









If you would like to donate to my projects fund, my paypal is: zothar@zothar.com  All donations will contribute to open source efforts and documentation to make others lives easier.  It's a pain trailblazing a new or dirty path, especially with limited funds...
More to come...

14 comments:

  1. Thank you for your uploading and updating your printer!
    It looks very simple and efficient design.
    So now did you get rid of 'Sliding VAT system'?

    I finally built up my hardware but am stuck how I can input number of steps the stepper motor and pitch of my lead screw into Creation Workshop...
    Did you edit some code in UVDLPSlicerController??

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    1. Sorry I just made mistake and read instractable article wrongly.
      I should have edit Sprinter firmware and should be fixed.
      Good luck for your awesome creation.

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    2. Thanks Masahiro! Yeah, you were right, the steps are in the sprinter firmware. I don't have the sliding VAT in this design yet. I plan on making attachments that slide the build plate, should be more compact.

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    3. Thank you for your reply Dan!
      I've seen the company developed SLA 3D printer has fixed VAT system somewhere at youtube.The VAT lift up from liquid surface and lift down to move back at same position between projector turns on and off.
      I thought you would plan to use that way.
      Although your planning new compact sliding system should be effective based on your experment!

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    4. May I ask you how did you get clear focus in such short distance on Acer H6510BD?
      I've got a same one and set up in about 7~8 inch to the bottom surface of VAT but projection is totally blurry...
      Did you customize projector?

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    5. Masahiro. Thank you very much for the donation. I will put it to good use. I hope your build is going very well. :)

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    6. Hi Dan. Congratulations for completing new design!
      How thick did you coat Sylgard 184 on borosilicate glass?
      I coated 0.19" thickness by generic highly transparent PDMS as same as Sylgard 184 on 0.19" thickenss borosilicate glass but that PDMS is breakable for UV curing..
      I'd like to refer your coating thickness.

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    7. Hi Masahiro. I'm very excited about the new design, it fits much better in my basement. The vat I tested my latest print on was coated to the thickness of 2 pieces of masking tape. It's very unscientific i know :) but it works excellent and makes it easy to coat without having to measure. I place the masking tape around the edges of the vat, pour in the mixed sylgard, and drag a straight edge across it a few times. I then use a fine needle to pop any of the big bubbles that may be there. I then cover it with a box and let it sit overnight. I've noticed sometimes I need to bake it in the oven at 250 degF for 20 minutes to get it to fully cure. If you'd like I can measure the thickness of the masking tape I use when I get home from work.

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    8. Thank you for quick response. It covers detail of coating VAT.
      Exact measurement doesn't require for me. Thank you a lot!

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  3. Hi I am in Bolton,Greater Manchester, UK and would like to know if there is anybody that would be willing to program the Arduino for me I am willing to pay for your service. I do play about with Arduino's I have programmed GRBL and run my dir router so I normally get my projects working but this one has got me stumped. I have a Ramps 1.4, 2560, A4988 drivers and an LCD 12864 with sd card interface but if somebody would program and set up ready for me to just install and run with my 2560 or for them to supply a ready programmed 2560 set up to run with my LCD12864 I would be more than happy to pay a very fair price as it will help me a lot.
    Cheers
    Bill

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    1. Hey Bill,

      You have a local Hacker/Maker Space called HacMan, who I'm sure would be able to help you with your Arduino programming problem.

      Cheers,
      --
      Martyn

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  5. Jakość wydruków nędzna.

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